We consider ourselves an online resource for homesteaders, farmers, and animal lovers alike. If you have any questions about your livestock, we would love to help you just send us an email. Any question, anytime, and I genuinely mean it when I say there are no stupid questions. I am sure at some point I had that question; maybe I was able to think it through and answer it myself, and perhaps I had to look it up or ask someone. Still, I would rather you asked the question then not and make a mistake that affects your animals negatively. So, in short, just ask!
Before we get started, I would like to let you know this is a cautious approach to buying a rabbit, but I try to use it every time I buy a rabbit. I have seen my fair share of bad (lying) breeders and would love to make it harder for breeders who scam people to do so.
Checklist for purchasing a new rabbit
Things to ask
Things to look for
Things to be Cautious of
Above all else, if anything feels wrong about a seller don’t buy from them. There are many scammers out there, especially in the rabbit trade. It is much better to wait than to get a rabbit that is going to break your heart in a few months because it has something wrong with it, whether genetically or otherwise.
Questions??? Feel free to email me (firstname.lastname@example.org) or text me (541-647-7258)
CARING FOR YOUR RABBIT(S)
What you need
choosing your chicks is the most important part of it all. after of course going though all the breeds that you might want to have in your yard or just choosing the cutest ones, you want to make sure you pick healthy chicks to begin with. some people like to get a sick chick and nurse it back to health but this more often than not ends in heartbreak. Worst of all is even if it does get better it will never be the best chicken it will always have its own issues and will probably not have a long life. you need to be able to tell a healthy chick from the unhealthy ones. there it a quick and easy way to tell they are healthy or not if they get up and run away from a hand or better yet the run from you just for looking down at them. bright eyed and bushy bodied is another great sign but the first sign is a guarantee. if more than 50% of the chicks in the same bin as the ones you want to bring home don't get up just don't get those babies find a different seller there is something wrong with how they are feeding/caring for the chicks or there is something wrong with the chicks genetics. its better to wait then to have the heartbreak and waist of money.
SOMEWHERE TO PUT THEM
I use a plastic tote with pin savings in the bottom of is. I like it because it is easy to clean out and very cheap to make. I have one tote that I use that has a lid with rabbit wire attached to the hole in the top. I also have one that I used when my sister brought home two ducklings it is much larger and much deeper than the one I made. I used it because I knew I needed a larger place for the duckles so that they wouldn't have to bend down when they got bigger/jump out of the border if I took of the lid. the larger tote does not have a lid I lost it years ago but unless you plan on keeping them somewhere, were predators can get to them they are fine to not have the fancy lids. Mine is in our tack room which does have a cat door in it but my cat likes to snuggle with the little animals and once chased of a raccoon from the horse stall we had my pet rabbit and her babies in he saved 6 out of the 7 babies. we thought it was him when we found the baby bunny dead but we eventually realized that our cat could not and would not rip the head off of the baby but that is what raccoons do. any whoo there are other options but they are all more expensive than the tote.
there is the fancy pants heater plate that take the risk of a fire but they are expensive and I have always used a heat lamp but my lamp is over concrete so if it fell the light would probably brake but even if it didn't I don't have anything that is flammable around it. if you live somewhere that it is hot all day you can make an off grid brooder but I don't know how. I of course have some ideas but don't really no how. one heat lamp that is placed so that one part of the brooder has the heat and the other side does not is the perfect way to help them grow up and not be reliant on the heat lamp as they get older they will spend less and less time under the heat lamp.
FEEDER AND WATERER
now you can use just about anything for this some people use an old tupperware for the water and its lid for the food this works fine. some people use the ones that you buy in a store and some use their own take on the first. I am one of those how buys the ones from the feed store. I have been raising chicks since 2014 and have bought a total of 5 feeder and waterers but I still have the first ones that I bought. they are very durable the only reason I have ever bought more is because I have a bad habit of not always putting things back and then later losing it and not finding it when I need it.
as much as I don't like purina it's one of the only brands that makes a quality chick starter that I can buy in my area and its cheaper. I feed haystack feed when they grow up but that is a local feed mill. as long as it is a look at the prices of the different chick starters and then ask someone which is the best feed and as long as they didn't tell you that the most expensive one was the best you can trust their opinion. if they do look at the ingredient lists on the bags and see which one sounds best. electrolytes are something I alway keep on hand in case there is a sick bird or other animal because the chick electrolyte mix is a great thing to mix up for a sick animals in general. some people just mix it in to there water no matter if they are sick or not but they don't need the constant electrolytes.
hope this help you guys if you have any questions please leave a comment and I will answer it ASAP
**We don't raise chickens anymore**
There are many reasons why we choose to raise our chickens in a pasture instead of free range. Before I knew anything about chickens I would have thought free range was a good and humane way to raise chickens. I now know that that isn't necessarily true. It makes me sick when I think about what the USDA considers humane. free range just isn't what it sounds like.
First of all free range does not mean what you think it does. free range simply means they have at least 2 sq ft each they really get very limited outdoor space. cage free also doesn't mean what you think it does they only get 1 sq ft each and no outside space at all they probably don't even get fresh air. Pasture-raised now that means they have at least 35 sq ft of outside space each. when chickens are pasture raise that can mean one of two things. The first thing that is could mean is they live in a pasture that has 35 sq ft for each chicken or more. the second thing that pasture-raised chickens could mean is that they have a smaller amount of space but they move that space around. Now your "tractor" chicken coop does not count it counts as free range though. A flock that is pasture raised in a rotational way has more room then free range requires in just one of the sections that the chickens are rotated in.
Many people are surprised when they learn what goes into caring for a rabbit. Here at LIttle Hill farms we love our bunnies and we want them to have long happy lives with you. So please take a few minutes to learn
about some of the basics of proper rabbit care.
Being highly social and very active you're new rabbit will need and adequate living space with a solid bottom, you can use a dog kennel, buy/DIY a hutch for your new bun. Give them a hiding place if they are inside as well as something to chew on the help wear down their teeth.
Rabbits should have access to hay and clean water at all times. In addition they should get ½ pound of
Fresh greens per 3 lbs. of the rabbit every other day. Use this link to figure out which veggies are best http://rabbit.org/suggested-vegetables-and-fruits-for-a-rabbit-diet/. Round out the diet with good quality pellets 1 OZ per every one pound of rabbit and some treats.
Spaying and neutering is not only necessary to control the bunny population, it is a good idea to spay or neuter them because they live longer if they are spayed or neutered. They also are more likely to destroy things if they aren't spayed or neutered.
Did you know?
Lead your goat to the milking stand and lock them in place. Put the hobble on the goat's feet so they don’t knock over the pail because they will! Place the pail under your doe's udder. Some people like to shave around their goats udder but it's not necessary.
Milking a goat
Place your pointer finger and your thumb around a single teat. Try to grab as high up on the udder as you can. Squeeze your thumb to your pointer finger while bringing the rest of your fingers around the teat squeezing it. Don’t pull down on the udder or the teat this can hurt your doe (ts only something they do in the movies). Release the lower three fingers and loosen the grip on the others. Now repeat until milk is no longer coming out. Then give the udder a punch as if you were a kid and are trying to get more milk from your mom. Now try again if you’ve done it right the udder should look deflated. Once you have got the hang of the one teat you can upgrade to two teats at a time but you don't need to I usually only milk one side at a time.
love my goats they are great companion for both me and our other animals. They all have great personalities, I love goats because they aren’t hard to take care of.
Goats need 3 main things
Clean water and food
No duh right every living thing needs both. Clean water in a bucket works great but goats will poop in there water so I clean it every morning and every night. With the food it gets more complicated than you might think goats not only need hay and grain but they also need mineral and baking soda. With the mineral and soda just put them in a divided dish that is off the ground
They will only eat it if they need it. With the hay I give mine about 1 and a half flakes of hay per goat at each feeding. Then I give 1 pound of food for every goat. Now you can got to any goat website or blog or whatever and they will give you a different way to feed your goat. Everyone has their own way of feeding their goats but if you just listen to this one thing I will be happy. Mineral lots of people say you don’t really need it but I know from experience that mineral and soda can save a goat's life. Soda can help prevent bloat and help save a goat with bloat. Mineral has lots of different minerals depending on where you live but those minerals are very important to your goats health, they help prevent goat illnesses and can lengthen a goat's life.
Now this can be a shed made from a few pallets tied together or a barn built for 100 goat’s. It all depends on what you need. Like I have 2 does and i anticipate that I have 6 babies a year that way I always have plenty of room for them all the babies. A goat needs about 20 square feet each of indoor space (kids need less than the adults) and 150 square feet for each goat. So I have 595 square feet and 125 square feet of indoor space, so 720 square feet total
Toys and friend to play with
Goats are herd animals they need a companion the more the better. If you make them toy that keep them interested they are more likely to stay in the enclosure. Toys can be as simple as a knot of cardboard they can eat while they play or something you buy specifically for a goat. One thing I find helps a ton is a post with some old brushes screwed onto it. This makes a great scratching post and can be entertaining for the goat. Another fun thing for goats is some old spools placed near each other for the goats to crawl on for this I actually use two large tractor tires one flat on the ground and the other leaned against the first
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